Plates & Pints: The Fat RadishClassic British cuisine gets a delectable makeover at this cozy Lower East Side joint

WHILE LIVING IN LONDON a few years ago, I discovered that virtually all of the stereotypes I had heard about the United Kingdom were true: it rains all the time, Britons have bad teeth, and their food sucks.

As both Paul Krugman and NPR have elucidated, the current cuisine was standardized during the Victorian era, when early urbanization and industrialization forced Londoners to eat canned goods, preserved meats, and root vegetables that store well. The culinary bastards that emerged from that period include lard-rich meat pasties, gravy-laden steaks and bangers, and unimaginative, oily fish and chips, sometimes served with a sad afterthought of mushy peas.

That’s why I was intrigued to discover The Fat Radish, a British-influenced eatery in New York City’s Lower East Side. Opened in October 2010, the restaurant is a spin-off of Silkstone, a premium event planning and catering company, and the brainchild of Ben Towill, Phil Winser, and Executive Chef Nicholas Wilber. With curiosity and high expectations, a friend and I decided to check it out.

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