Words and Illustrations by Jeremy Wolf | Photographs by Paul Wax
FOR THE FIRST HALF of the twentieth century, the straight razor ruled supreme. The sleek, brutal instrument brought a distinct aura of masculinity to the ritual of shaving. The value of a shave was measured in its closeness and comfort, both of which the straight razor provided in spades to experienced users. High quality construction using materials like stainless steel, wood, and mother of pearl gave the razors themselves a sophisticated air.
But for decades now, the straight razor has taken a backseat to cheap safety blades with names that sound like video games or secret government experiments: Trac II, Mach III, Fusion, Power Phantom.
With its gentler learning curve, a perception that it would save men money, and an aggressive marketing campaign, the disposable safety razor buried the market for the less intuitive straight razor in the post-World War II era. With each new blade and lubricating strip added, more men eschewed the outdated straight razor. While these added features reduced the time we spend shaving in front of the mirror, those additions have also succeeded at reducing the quality of our shaves and burning a bigger hole in our pockets.
Now, though, the straight razor is finally poised for a comeback.
More and more, men are discovering that expediency isn’t a worthy return in a trade for the quality and precision of the way things were done before. Whereas safety blades use a tug-and-pull system, straight razors have the advantage of a clean-cut technology that leaves skin less irritated and achieves a closer shave. As men rediscover the benefits inherent in using classic grooming implements such as the straight razor, old-fashioned and gentlemanly barbershops thought lost to a bygone era are seeing a resurgence in popularity.
Below, Handlebar takes you inside one of the finest of these new-yet-old establishments, The New York Shaving Company, to check out their top-of-the-line shaving experience. Then, we’ll show how you can do it yourself in the comfort of your own bathroom.
THE PROFESSIONAL SHAVE
Walking into The New York Shaving Company feels a bit like stepping back in time. The tinny sound of 1940s and ’50s big band playing over the speakers, the lacquered wood showcases, and massive leather bound barber’s chairs all might have you seeing in grainy black and white at first. Make no mistake, though, this is one of the foremost men’s grooming shops in New York. Think the refinement and class of Cary Grant more than the lemon that was the Ford Edsel.
Owner John Scala, 32, opened the barbershop in 2008 in response to what he saw as a void in New York’s grooming market. “Until we came out, there was nothing like this: a tonsorial parlor specifically driven for gentlemen,” Scala told Handlebar.
Men have certainly responded, flocking to the quiet NoLIta storefront for a taste of old-fashioned service, a glass of whisky or two, and a relaxing, refreshing shave.
“The Ultimate Shave” is the shop’s most popular option, and with good reason. Performed by one of their expert barbers, it’ll leave your face smooth, soft and ready to be appreciated by your girlfriend.
Click through the slideshow below to see the process unfold.
THE DO-IT-YOURSELF VERSION
Now, you may not be able to achieve the “Ultimate Shave” alone at home, but if you follow these steps and add a little practice, you can definitely improve on that shave you’re getting with that cheap, disposable razor. After picking up a few pointers from the master barbers at The New York Shaving Company, Handlebar created the illustrated set of instructions below to help ensure you bring your A-game for that next date or job interview.
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Step 1: You should always shave after a shower or applying a hot towel. The heat and moisture will help to soften the whiskers as well as the skin. This will allow for easier glide once you start the shave. If you have pre-shave oil, now’s the time to apply it.
Step 2: Next, wet down your shaving brush and apply some shaving cream. Lather the cream on to your face using circular motions. Applying shaving cream with a shaving brush helps to stand your whiskers up, which will allow for a closer, less irritating shave. Now, the prep work is done and you’re ready to start the actual shave.
Step 3: A straight razor isn’t called a safety razor for a reason; it can nick your face up if you don’t use it properly. You’ll want to come at the skin from an angle—don’t go perpendicular to your face, but don’t rest the flat of the blade on your cheek either. Instead, look to achieve an angle around 30 degrees.
Step 4: Use your non-razor hand to stretch the skin of your face upward and tense when you begin to shave. For the first pass, go along with the grain of your beard all over. Leave hard to shave areas, like under the nose, for last.
Step 5: Now comes a crucial step in achieving a close shave. You’re going to use the razor vertically and make a pass across your face. Again, use your non-razor hand to stretch the skin in the opposite direction of your razor strokes. Come from the jaw toward the chin. This pass is very important as it prepares your skin for the next step.
Step 6: Now, take your non-razor hand and stretch your skin downward. You can do this by collecting some of the skin on your neck and pinching it together. Use the razor to make strokes upward and complete the pass against the grain of your beard. This final pass will leave you with a very close shave.
Step 7: Finish up with a splash of cold water, preferably icy. This extreme temperature shock will help to close the pores on your freshly shorn face quickly. Apply some talc powder to soothe any irritation and then a gentle aftershave, free of alcohol, fragrance, and any other synthetic ingredients.
For more information on the New York Shaving Company, please visit http://nyshavingcompany.com
